Raicilla, bacanora, sotol: mezcal's cousins explained

Mezcal's Denomination of Origin covers nine states. But Mexican agave-spirit production doesn't stop at those borders – three related categories, each with its own denomination, produce spirits that share mezcal's methods without sharing its label. Understanding them widens the map considerably.

Raicilla (pronounced rye-SEE-ya) is Jalisco's mezcal – produced in the western highlands and the coastal sierra, from agave maximiliana and a few related species. The name comes from the colonial-era slang for moonshine, and the category historically operated outside the legal framework of tequila. The spirit itself is brighter, more herbal, and less smoky than Oaxacan mezcal; coastal raicillas especially tend toward tropical-fruit and floral notes. Look for La Venenosa, Estancia, and Don Ramon. Prices run $50–$120 for serious bottles.

Bacanora is Sonora's agave spirit, made exclusively from agave pacifica (also called yaquiana or Sonora agave). Sonora's climate and soil give bacanora a drier, sharper profile than most mezcal – less sweet, more mineral, with a characteristic note some reviewers describe as 'desert herb.' The category was illegal from 1915 until 1992, which explains why most drinkers haven't heard of it. Commercial brands to know: Rancho Tepua, Santo Cuviso, Sunora. Prices $60–$140.

Sotol is technically not an agave spirit – the plant (Dasylirion wheeleri) is more closely related to lilies. Sotol is produced in Chihuahua, Coahuila, and Durango. It drinks closer to gin than to mezcal – piney, herbal, with a resinous undertow. Flor del Desierto, Ocho Cientos, and Sotol Por Siempre are the serious bottles. Prices $40–$90.

All three categories are under-imported to the US, which means US drinkers who want to explore them need to go out of their way. Specialty spirits retailers like Astor Wines (NYC), K&L (LA), and Spec's (TX) carry them; most neighborhood liquor stores don't.

The practical advice: if mezcal's Oaxaca-centric catalog is starting to feel like a closed loop, one bottle from each of these categories is a complete refresher. Raicilla opens up the Jalisco vocabulary. Bacanora opens up the Sonoran one. Sotol opens up a different plant family entirely. None of them should replace mezcal on a shelf, but they make the mezcal shelf more interesting by contrast.