Alipus San Baltazar

Verdict

The San Baltazar village bottle runs a couple proof points above the rest of the commercial Alipus range, the difference between a working village bottle and a distribution-shelf compromise. Alipus's better bottles always cluster around higher proof; the range's reputation would be cleaner if they committed to it everywhere. Buy the San Baltazar; the commercial San Juan doesn't deserve the same shelf.

Tasting notes

Nose: Warm stone first with green apple, a faint mineral note and trace of dried herb

Palate: Dense, Baltazar village profile, which runs slightly more stone than neighboring Matatlán

Finish: Dry, with a slow smoke fade – medium-long

The bottom line

Fine as a village category introduction