Borroso - Javier Mateo

Verdict

A 49% batch drinks as legitimate mid-tier espadín; a 42% batch barely clears the category's seriousness bar – and both batches carry the same label. The producer's hand is legitimate; the batch control is the drinker's problem. Check the proof on the bottle before you buy. Skip the 42%; the 49% is fine.

Tasting notes

Nose: Cooked agave, warm earth, faint smoke, green apple and a trace of cooked sugar

Palate: Medium-bodied at 42-49% (range). The variable proof across batches suggests Borroso doesn't run a strict production floor – that's reflected in inconsistent quality

Finish: Dry, with a variable smoke fade – medium-long

The bottom line

Fine if you pick up a 49% batch. Check the label