Bozal Jabali

Verdict

Jabalí is the agave that ranks producers by discipline, and Bozal's is in the middle of the pack – competent containment without the structural argument that separates Rey Campero and El Jolgorio's jabalís from the rest. Buy the Rey Campero at a similar price, or the Buen Camino for less, for jabalí that earns the category; this is jabalí that survives it.

Tasting notes

Nose: Hot stone, green pepper

Palate: Medium-dense at 47% – jabalí's character readable but not concentrated. Jabalí is notoriously hard to manage, and Bozal keeps it clean enough to clear the floor of the category, but the pour never moves past careful control of a difficult agave

Finish: Long, drying, with a slow herb fade

The bottom line

Rey Campero Jabalí outperforms

Where to buy online

We found this bottle at 2 US retailers. Prices and stock vary – click through to check.

• Old Town Tequila – $104
• Wooden Cork – $109