De Ella Wild Madre

Verdict

Wild Madre is De Ella at its most confident – tepeztate is hard to fake and the liquid delivers. The missing producer credit still matters, because the brand's stated mission is partly about surfacing women producers. Buy this if you're compiling a tepeztate flight, but reach for Cuish's named-maestra releases when you want the mission fulfilled. Good intentions, incomplete execution.

Tasting notes

Nose: Bell pepper, lime leaf, damp earth, faint honey

Palate: 46% tepeztate – the marmorata's vegetal spine reads cleanly, though the lack of named maestro makes the provenance story thinner than the category norm

Finish: Herbal, mineral

The bottom line

A credible tepeztate; named-maestra alternatives are preferable