Reviews / El Jolgorio Cenizo (A. Karwinskii)
Review · · by The Editors
El Jolgorio Cenizo (A. Karwinskii)
Durango cenizo in the Jolgorio voice – weighty and precise
Score: 4.5/5 agaves
- Producer: El Jolgorio Mezcal
- Maestro: Ignacio Parada
- Region: Santa Maria Zoquitlan, Oaxaca
- Agave: Cenizo
- ABV: 48%
- Price: $160 ($$)
Verdict
Most Jolgorio bottles argue for Oaxaca; this one argues for leaving it. Durango cenizo under the Jolgorio production model – single maestro, specific batch, serious proof – lands with the northern austerity intact and the specialty-importer rigor that state usually lacks. The bottle closest we've tasted to a Durango that deserves to be mentioned alongside the Oaxacan reference work.
Jolgorio going north
Tasting notes
Nose: Pine, hot hay, dry herb, warm earth
Palate: Dense and mineral at 48% – the northern agave's character treated with Jolgorio's usual rigor
Finish: Cooling, drying – very long
The bottom line
A top-tier northern mezcal