El Jolgorio Cuishe

Verdict

Cuishe is the karwinskii to start with if you're learning the family, less weighty than madrecuishe, less aromatic than tobalá, the sibling whose character lets the drinker hear the family's shared dialect clearly. Jolgorio's production keeps the vegetal-mineral register clean. Buy it as the karwinskii-family entry point; climb to sierrudo or madrecuishe once the dialect is familiar.

Tasting notes

Nose: Green pepper, then wet stone, mineral damp

Palate: Lean at 47%. Cuishe at standard Jolgorio proof is an approachable wild agave, less imposing than madrecuishe, more structured than tobaziche

Finish: Cooling, drying, with a slow green-herb fade – long

The bottom line

Fine; the madrecuishe above it is the step up

Where to buy online

We found this bottle at 3 US retailers. Prices and stock vary – click through to check.

• Caskers
• Saratoga Wine
• Hi-Time Wine