Lalocura Cuixe-Tepeztate

Verdict

Lalocura's cuishe-tepextate ensamble is what wild-agave blending sounds like when both sides of the blend are intentional – the karwinskii cuishe and marmorata tepextate hold distinct voices, and the 50% proof is carrying both cleanly. Real Minero's ensambles are the benchmark class; Lalocura sits inside that class. Few ensambles at 50% come together this cleanly. No consensus on file; our 4.5 reflects the maestro's house level.

Tasting notes

Nose: Floral, wet stone, green herb, a mineral trace under cooked agave

Palate: Dense and architectural at 50%. Eduardo 'Lalo' Ángeles is one of the three or four Oaxacan maestros whose name on a label is a guarantee; the cuishe-tepextate ensamble plays as two wild agaves having a real conversation, not a blend of convenience

Finish: Mineral-floral, slow cool fade – very long

The bottom line

Find one. Lalo Ángeles at ensamble strength