Lalocura San Martinero, Tobasiche, Espadin

Verdict

Three-agave ensambles usually fail the way five-agave ones fail – voices crowding each other out. Lalocura's clay still is the binding agent: espadín, san martinero, and tobaziche share a textural register the pot distillation gives them, and each stays legible. San martinero is rarely bottled single-variety let alone ensemble'd; the bottle is a vocabulary lesson with a real composition underneath.

Tasting notes

Nose: Wildflower, green pepper, cooked agave, mineral

Palate: Layered and textured at 49.02% – the three agaves find their voices without stepping on each other

Finish: Drying, warm. Long

The bottom line

A strong Lalocura ensamble