Lamata Cenizo, Verde Nuevo Leon

Verdict

Northern mezcal rarely travels, and a pulque-fermented one almost never does. The Torres family lets the wild ferment push a lactic funk under the cenizo's dry desert herb, then uses verde to keep the top bright. It tastes like nowhere in Oaxaca. Buy it if Derrumbes Durango opened the northern door for you and you want to walk further through.

Tasting notes

Nose: Dry desert herb, green agave, sourdough, mineral dust, a lactic tang

Palate: Dry and savory at 49-51%. The pulque ferment adds a funky lactic depth under the northern cenizo's herbal bite, verde lifting the top

Finish: Long, dry, herbal, faintly sour

The bottom line

Track it down for the northern shelf