Lamata Madrecuixe Oaxaca

Verdict

Lamata Madrecuishe Oaxaca from Jarquín is the rebuttal to every underproofed madrecuishe on the shelf – 49.5% is exactly what this karwinskii wants, and Jarquín's production lets the agave's density come through without amplification. This is the madrecuishe the category should be measured against. Put it on the karwinskii shortlist. Consensus 4.3; we rate 4.5.

Tasting notes

Nose: Green herb up front. Wet stone, vegetal damp, a mineral hum underneath

Palate: Dense and vegetal-stone at 49.5%. This is madrecuishe at the proof it wants, the karwinskii-green shoulder is present, the mid-palate holds together, and Jarquín's hand reads throughout

Finish: Mineral-green, slow cool close

The bottom line

On the want list. Madrecuishe at correct proof, from the right hand

Where to buy online

We found this bottle at 2 US retailers. Prices and stock vary – click through to check.

• Astor Wines – $150
• Old Town Tequila – $139.99