Maguey Melate Sacatoro

Verdict

Sacatoro is what espadín wishes it were in most commercial bottlings, angustifolia grown in the Guerrero highlands, where altitude and wild pollination change its posture entirely. Israel Petronilo Apolinar lets the agave do the work and leaves 48% of him in the glass. If you've been told espadín is boring, pour this alongside a Vida and stop believing that.

Tasting notes

Nose: Crushed lemongrass – then fresh cut hay, sweet pepper, light ashy smoke, green cardamom

Palate: Bright and aromatic. At 48%, the Guerrero highland character gives this angustifolia a savory spine you don't usually get from lowland espadín, and Israel's cut keeps the top notes singing without smearing

Finish: Grassy, clean, long

The bottom line

Track it. Guerrero angustifolia at its clearest