Mala Idea Espadin Capon

Verdict

Capón works when the agave has the structural voltage to carry the concentrated sugars. Celestino Sernas's espadín at 45% doesn't have that voltage, the resulting bottle drinks sweet-soft rather than dense-dry, and the mezcal character gets smothered. Pass. Papalote capón from Calzada or Barranca shows what capón can do; this bottle shows what goes wrong.

Tasting notes

Nose: Concentrated cooked agave with quiet smoke

Palate: 45% of an espadín concentrated by capón technique, the sugar reads syrupy, the mezcal structure can't hold the weight, the bottle drifts toward dessert rather than drink

Finish: Sweet, flat, medium

The bottom line

A skip. Capón done without the proof to hold it