Reviews / Maltoro Cuishe

Review · · by The Editors

Maltoro Cuishe

Cuishe at 40%. The proof decision says everything

Score: 2.5/5 agaves

Maltoro Cuishe bottle
  • Producer: Maltoro Mezcal
  • Maestro: Juan Carlos Mateo
  • Region: Santiago Matatlán, Oaxaca
  • Agave: Cuishe
  • ABV: 40%
  • Price: $60 ($$)

Verdict

Juan Carlos Mateo's Maltoro cuishe at 40% is an object lesson in commercial-ABV mezcal: the agave is technically present, the liquid is technically mezcal, and neither fact survives contact with the glass. Karwinskii below 47% is rarely right; at 40% it's a decision made somewhere other than the still.

Cuishe at 40% is a category mistake

Tasting notes

Nose: Faint green herb – then soft mineral, quiet cooked agave

Palate: 40% of copper cuishe, the karwinskii signature is barely audible, the bottle drinks thin and sweet-commercial

Finish: Short, soft, fades immediately

The bottom line

Skip. Commercial ABV for a specialty agave

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