Mestiza Negra Espadin

Verdict

Doña Juana's espadín runs softer than most Matatlán, butter, cream, peach, a late tobacco, and the 45% reads clean rather than cut. On the liquid alone the community's 4.0 is fair; the extra half-agave here is the price doing the arguing. Twenty dollars at Trader Joe's, $22 to $29 online. Buy it over Vida and pocket the difference.

Tasting notes

Nose: Warm stone, then cooked agave, orange peel

Palate: Matatlán with the commercial sweetness dialed back. A mineral mid-palate, green-herb thread, and smoke that sits as seasoning rather than feature; lean at 45%

Finish: Drying, a slow cooling close – medium-long

The bottom line

The $20 house pour; stock it

Where to buy online

We found this bottle at 2 US retailers. Prices and stock vary – click through to check.

• Total Wine – $22
• Goody Goody – $29