Mil Caminos Ensamble

Verdict

Wild-agave ensambles are a high-wire act, each variety should be identifiable, and together they should tell a story the bottle couldn't otherwise tell. Mil Caminos ships the roster but not the result; the tepextate's floral top, tobalá's mineral bite, and cuishe's herbal mid all go missing in a smoothed middle. For the same category, Banhez Ensamble costs less and says more.

Tasting notes

Nose: Light smoke – then cooked agave, green fruit, a generic floral note

Palate: 47% tobalá-cuishe-tepextate is a roster that should sing, this one whispers. The components don't lift each other; they average out

Finish: Clean, slightly sweet

The bottom line

A skip. The concept outruns the liquid