Reviews / NETA Bicuixe + Jabalín - Celso Garcia Cruz
Review · · by The Editors
NETA Bicuixe + Jabalín - Celso Garcia Cruz
Celso García Cruz's bicuishe plus jabalí at 48.5% – karwinskii meets the difficult agave
Score: 4.5/5 agaves
- Producer: NETA
- Maestro: Celso García Cruz
- Region: Miahuatlán, Oaxaca
- Agave: Bicuishe, Jabali
- ABV: 48.5%
- Price: $153 ($$)
Verdict
Jabalí is the category's difficult child, high-loss yield, unpredictable distillation, demanding of proof. Celso García Cruz handles it by ensembling with bicuishe and pushing to 48.5%, and the result earns it. Nine reviewers at 4.5 is an easy recommendation. This is also a good education about why jabalí at 45% – see Mitre's 3 Magueyes – tends to disappoint.
Jabalí at 48.5% is a producer taking the agave seriously
Tasting notes
Nose: Lime leaf, warm earth, wild herb, faint animal musk
Palate: 48.5% ensamble where jabalí finally has the proof it demands, married to bicuishe's mineral spine. The jabalí's wild-funk register emerges without dominating
Finish: Very long, herbal, drying
The bottom line
A buy. One of the better jabalí-inflected ensambles in the category