Papadiablo Espadin

Verdict

Papadiablo is a producer to buy up the ladder, not at the entry. This espadín is cleanly rendered at an the proof where the agave shows and still somehow anonymous, which is more the category's fault than the producer's, but it's the bottle's fact. Skip toward the arroqueño or the especial ensamble, both of which are where the house hand actually shows up.

Tasting notes

Nose: Cooked agave with citrus zest, a touch of green herb

Palate: 47.5% of straight espadín, cleanly made, unchallenging, unremarkable. The proof is the most distinctive thing about it

Finish: Clean, mildly sweet, medium

The bottom line

A skip toward the arroqueño or the especial ensamble