Siempre Oaxaca Barril

Verdict

Siempre Oaxaca's cooperative model produces bottles that vary more than a individual-maestro line would – but the barril is the house at its most honest. Refrescador distillation and Ejutla agave give this a texture most barril jovens don't approach. It's not the wildest karwinskii on the shelf, but at this tier it earns the pour.

Tasting notes

Nose: Cooked agave with green herbs, a savory brine, light smoke

Palate: The refrescador distillation gives this an oilier texture than most karwinskii jovens – barril's savory depth carries through, with a vegetal undertow that comes through as Ejutla signature

Finish: Medium-long, savory, mineral

The bottom line

The cooperative's quiet success. Worth the shelf space