Reviews / Tehuana Con Gusano
Review · · by The Editors
Tehuana Con Gusano
The worm in the bottle – historically dubious, still sells
Score: 3.0/5 agaves
- Producer: Tehuana Mezcal
- Maestro: Petronilo Rosario Altamirano
- Region: Las Margaritas, Oaxaca
- Agave: Espadin
- ABV: 40%
- Price: $40 ($)
Verdict
The agave worm's place in mezcal is contested, some producers treat it as tradition, others as mid-century marketing. Tehuana's Con Gusano is honest about what it is: an infused joven, not a transformed one. At 40% there isn't enough structure to justify the gimmick. Skip unless you want the bottle as a conversation piece. Petronilo Rosario Altamirano's work deserves a better vehicle.
The worm is a souvenir, not a technique
Tasting notes
Nose: A light smoke with sweet top
Palate: 40% and a post-distillation worm addition give this a suggestion of savor on top of an otherwise unremarkable espadín, the gusano is a marketing decision, not a flavor one
Finish: Clean, faintly savory, medium
The bottom line
Pass. The mezcalero has better bottles