Reviews / Ultramundo Lamparillo - Gilberto Roldán

Review · · by The Editors

Ultramundo Lamparillo - Gilberto Roldán

The Roldán bottling is the one to chase

Score: 5.0/5 agaves

Ultramundo Lamparillo - Gilberto Roldán bottle
  • Producer: Ultramundo Mezcal
  • Maestro: Gilberto Roldan
  • Region: Nombre de Dios, Durango
  • Agave: Lamparillo
  • ABV: 48%
  • Price: $70 ($)

Verdict

Among the individual-maestro Ultramundo bottles, the Roldán version is the one the other bottlings read against. The structure is tighter, the herbal tail is longer, the proof lands exactly where northern agaves want it. Between this and the better Lalocura bottlings, the single-maestro movement has its proof of concept in the north. Take it when you see it.

Gilberto Roldán is writing the Durango reference in real time

Tasting notes

Nose: Hot pine, cracked pepper, dry herbs, a long mineral note

Palate: Dense, herbal, cooling at 48-52%, with a structural clarity the other Ultramundo bottlings gesture at and this one achieves

Finish: Mentholated, dry. Very long

The bottom line

Take it when you see it. The best of the Ultramundo bench

Where to buy online

We found this bottle at 5 US retailers. Prices and stock vary – click through to check.

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