Reviews / Unión Viejo

Review · · by The Editors

Unión Viejo

Glass-aged espadín-tobalá that traded sharpness for softness

Score: 3.0/5 agaves

Unión Viejo bottle
  • Producer: Union Mezcal
  • Maestro: Pedro Hernandez
  • Region: San Baltazar Guélavila, Oaxaca
  • Agave: Espadin, Tobala
  • ABV: 45%
  • Price: $70 ($$)

Verdict

Unión is one of the more distributed Oaxacan brands, and the Viejo line represents the house's bet that glass-aging adds value. Sometimes it does; here it comes through as softening without obvious gain – the espadín-tobalá pairing is fine, just muted. Pedro Hernandez's fresher expressions in the Unión range are more telling. Pass for a younger bottle.

Glass-aging is subtraction. Sometimes you don't want subtraction

Tasting notes

Nose: Honey. Then cooked agave, faint wood, a rounded sweetness

Palate: Soft and integrated at 45%, with years in glass rounding the ensamble into something cohesive but also duller than a fresh bottling would be

Finish: Soft, gentle. Medium

The bottom line

Competent glass-aged ensamble. The fresher Unión bottles argue harder

Where to buy online

We found this bottle at 5 US retailers. Prices and stock vary – click through to check.

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