Unión Viejo

Verdict

Unión is one of the more distributed Oaxacan brands, and the Viejo line represents the house's bet that glass-aging adds value. Sometimes it does; here it comes through as softening without obvious gain – the espadín-tobalá pairing is fine, just muted. Pedro Hernandez's fresher expressions in the Unión range are more telling. Pass for a younger bottle.

Tasting notes

Nose: Honey, then cooked agave, faint wood, a rounded sweetness

Palate: Soft and integrated at 45%, with years in glass rounding the ensamble into something cohesive but also duller than a fresh bottling would be

Finish: Soft, gentle. Medium

The bottom line

Competent glass-aged ensamble. The fresher Unión bottles argue harder

Where to buy online

We found this bottle at 6 US retailers. Prices and stock vary – click through to check.

• Total Wine – $48.99
• Keg N Bottle – $55
• Saratoga Wine – $50
• Binny's – $50
• Mission Liquor – $46
• Oregon OLCC (state price) – $50