Reviews / Unión Viejo
Review · · by The Editors
Unión Viejo
Glass-aged espadín-tobalá that traded sharpness for softness
Score: 3.0/5 agaves
- Producer: Union Mezcal
- Maestro: Pedro Hernandez
- Region: San Baltazar Guélavila, Oaxaca
- Agave: Espadin, Tobala
- ABV: 45%
- Price: $70 ($$)
Verdict
Unión is one of the more distributed Oaxacan brands, and the Viejo line represents the house's bet that glass-aging adds value. Sometimes it does; here it comes through as softening without obvious gain – the espadín-tobalá pairing is fine, just muted. Pedro Hernandez's fresher expressions in the Unión range are more telling. Pass for a younger bottle.
Glass-aging is subtraction. Sometimes you don't want subtraction
Tasting notes
Nose: Honey. Then cooked agave, faint wood, a rounded sweetness
Palate: Soft and integrated at 45%, with years in glass rounding the ensamble into something cohesive but also duller than a fresh bottling would be
Finish: Soft, gentle. Medium
The bottom line
Competent glass-aged ensamble. The fresher Unión bottles argue harder
Where to buy online
We found this bottle at 5 US retailers. Prices and stock vary – click through to check.