Cocktails mezcal actually works in

Mezcal's commercial rise was built on cocktails. Del Maguey's Vida became a bar-well staple because it shows up reliably in a Negroni, a Paloma, and a dozen other classics without overwhelming the other ingredients. This is the short list of cocktails where mezcal is the correct spirit – and the shorter list of cocktails where it isn't, whatever your Instagram feed suggests.

Mezcal Negroni (1:1:1 mezcal, Campari, sweet vermouth). The canonical mezcal cocktail. A smoky espadín (Vida, Banhez Ensamble, Fidencio Clásico) turns the Negroni's bitter-aromatic backbone into something savory and longer-lasting. Stir with ice, strain over a large cube, twist orange peel, drop it in.

Mezcal Paloma (2 oz mezcal, 3 oz grapefruit soda, pinch of salt, lime). The easiest summer drink in the category. Espadín's smoke is the counterpoint to grapefruit's sweet-bitterness. Fresh grapefruit juice + soda water + simple syrup is the purist version; Squirt or Jarritos Toronja does the job fine.

Oaxaca Old Fashioned (1 oz mezcal, 1 oz reposado tequila, agave nectar, Angostura bitters). Phil Ward's cocktail at Death & Co. made mezcal credible in a serious cocktail context. The reposado tequila smooths out the mezcal's edges; the two agaves read as one.

Smoky Margarita (2 oz mezcal, 1 oz lime, 0.75 oz agave, salt rim). The simplest possible 1:1 swap from tequila. A reasonable margarita with mezcal is better than a mediocre margarita with tequila, provided the mezcal is a cocktail-friendly espadín and not a delicate tobalá (don't).

Mezcal Last Word (0.75 oz each: mezcal, green Chartreuse, lime, maraschino liqueur). The smoky riff on the Prohibition-era classic. Mezcal's vegetal notes match Chartreuse's herbal density in a way gin cannot. An underrated, excellent drink.

And the cocktails where mezcal is the wrong spirit: Mezcal Martini (no – mezcal's intensity is incompatible with vermouth's delicacy; the result is muddled). Mezcal Manhattan (rarely works – mezcal's smoke smothers rye's spice). Mezcal Sour (too much sugar; the spirit flattens). Mezcal Bloody Mary (you're making this decision on Sunday morning for the wrong reasons; use vodka or tequila). The rule of thumb: if the classic requires delicacy or precision, mezcal will overwhelm it. If the classic is bitter, savory, or citrus-forward, mezcal is probably the upgrade.