Bruxo X

Verdict

This is what mezcal looks like when the marketing department has veto power over the maestro. The bottle hits distribution targets; it doesn't represent what espadín-barril ensamble can do at proof that holds. Skip – Fidencio Clásico is the same price, has an actual producer voice, and doesn't pretend its polish is what makes it good.

Tasting notes

Nose: Cooked agave, then soft smoke, pineapple candy, a faint vanilla undertone and trace of cooked sugar

Palate: Smooth at 40% – commercial discipline over distinguishing character. The bottle is designed to work as a cocktail pour without offending anyone; the character-removal is part of the design specification rather than a production failure

Finish: Sweet, with a slow smoke fade – short

The bottom line

A skip

Where to buy online

We found this bottle at 3 US retailers. Prices and stock vary – click through to check.

• Old Town Tequila – $39
• Wooden Cork
• Mission Liquor